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1977 T2B with a 2002 legacy engine 2.0 sohc
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Alan
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Joined: 31 Jul 2014
Posts: 11
Location: netherland

PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 1:07 am    Post subject: 1977 T2B with a 2002 legacy engine 2.0 sohc Reply with quote

hi

my name is Alan and my conversion is completed i'm posting it here instead in completed conversions so i dont have to type the whole thing in one go

first my ride



in these pictures it had a 1600 diesel from a vanagon so it already had radiators and a heater less work for me Grin



this legacy is the donor i used



alternator was missing but it only had 100662mile on it (162000km)





gave it a good clean



labeled everything even if it looked redundant better safe then cleuless Grin











then i took out the wiringloom and spead it out on the windshield



and then i tested the loom

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1mOGzhIEgs

ok still works Happy

i took out the engine and gearbox





i took everything out of the car that i could bolt screw or cut out
you'll never know what you can re use during the conversion
and parts can also be sold to recuperate some money

i bought the car for 450 euro and so fare i got 320 euro back selling parts
Grin Grin
and i stil have some parts on the shelf that can be sold with a litle luck the whole car wil be free or even bring money Laugh Out Loud

i took out the recenty refurbished diesel engine, taxes changed for diesel engines in the netherlands and i wanted more power anyway.
i got away with it when i told the miss i was changing the engine AGAIN



here you can see the radiators on both sides
these worked fine for the diesel and they work fine with the suby



i also started with the wiringloom







dont throw anything away of the wiring until the engine is running in your conversion because if you cut out to much you can solder it back in the original and same collors as the diagram

i also bought some goodies Grin







i changed the inputshaft for a suby splined one on my type 091 gearbox

there is almost no information with pictures on the www how its done
so i made some

when you drained the gearbox en take off the bellhousing
pull the retainer ring all the way back (pointed out with arow)



then pull back the splined sleeve all the way back



then you can turn the input shaft left and it wil come loose there is a stud bolt in the inputshaft see pic



to put in the new shaft just work in reverse Happy

also dont forget to change the pilot bearing behind the clutch in the suby engine

after i closed the gearbox with the rjes bellhousing i made a support for the gearbox

i re used the rubber from suby gearboxsupport





i used a angle bar 30x50x4 mm an a strip 50x4mm



made wholes for the rubber



then welded the anglebar and strip together







took another anglebar also 50x30 mm and notched it so i could bend it in the desired shape





the support is bolted where the arrows are



weld the notches shut



then weld the plate on the support



i made wholes where the studbolts are positioned so i also could weld the plate from above



now its ready to assamble













i made a slot so i'could adjust the hight of the gearbox
(when the engine support is in place with the engine and gearbox it is not adjustible anymore its there to make it easyer to fit the engine support at the right hight)







clamped on so i can drill the wholes to atache it to the body



bolted to the body



and the gearbox is now atached to the support




more pics and details later

greetz Alan
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1977 T2B with suby 2.0 from a 2002 legacy
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Alan
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 9:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi all
more info and pics of my conversion

the engine support is made of a rectangular tube 20x30x3mm
i cutted out the suby engine support





i used a bevel angle tool to determine what angle was needet for the supportbar by holding it alongside the suby engine support



i notched out the bar to bend it in the same angle as the bevel angle tool



then i notched it again to bend it to the opposite way so it would fit under the chassis



then i welded all the notches and also the suby suport on the bar





after a couple of weeks i found out that the engine support and the sump were in conflict of space

so i changed the bar, this was easyer then changing the sump



i also had to adjust the wholes



i took a 3mm plate and made these in to strips and bende them at an angle of 90° and 110°







the angle bending machine can only bend max 90°
so i bended it further at an angle of 70°



i also drilled the mounting wholes at this stage because its easyer then when they are welded to the bar



i welded them on the supportbar



to make it sturdier i welded an extra plate



i testfitted it with the engine then took out the engine and drilled the wholes in the chassis for mounting the bar

here its bolted in place



and test fitting with the enginge just to be sure





to make it sturdier i made plate to bolt on to the otherside of the chassis beam so i wouldn't damage the beam when i tightened the bolts




more pics and details later

greetz Alan
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splitbusvanatic
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Joined: 08 Oct 2006
Posts: 319
Location: Co. Mayo, Ireland

PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Loving it so far.
Nice to know its finished and your next update is coming soon.
Great work.
How did you like the old 1.6diesel. ?
Poor things are slow.
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Jedi Knight
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Joined: 24 Jul 2012
Posts: 129
Location: Victoria,B.C. Canada

PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 2:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good, why the swap to Subaru ?
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Alan
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Location: netherland

PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi

the diesel engine worked fine but it lacked power, when i was the neighberhood of Dartmoor National Park and also in the Ardennen (Belgium) there were hills i only could climb in 1st gear and sometimes in 2nd gear

top speed was 62.

im not a speedfreak but when i overtake a truck i want to do it in a few seconds not minutes Happy

the fuel econemy was great with the diesel 51 mpg

but then the goverment came allong with new taxlaws for diesel and LPG powered cars wich were ridiculous.
the frugal diesel became more expensive then a petrol engine
then i thought, time to swap the engine an get some more power in the proces Grin

my top speed now is with 15"195 50% tire is 78 mph

so now i'm cruising at 58 mph instead of allmost maxing out the engine

another thing is when i go up hill i overtake the trucks instead of trucks overtaking me Laugh Out Loud

grt Alan
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Alan
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

in the induction section on the RJES website it states

From 2000 - 2002 all Subaru’s had the idle speed control valve relocated to on top of the throttle body. The new stepper motor ISC valve is much smaller than the older manifold mounted pulse width modulated valve. This relocation of the valve means that when the entire induction manifold is reversed in the engine, there is enough room for the (relocated) alternator. This is the only option for moving the throttle body on a 2000 --> engine, as the complex extra passageways for the ISC valve mean that reversing just the throttle body (as with 1990 - 1999 models, above) is impractical:

i didn't want to reverse the manifold, only the throtlle body so this is what i came up with

intake manifold



throtllebody



i made 2 intake flanges



i welded them on a 2" pipe













i welded 2 tubes on the flanges for the extra passageway







i had to replace the transparant tube because it easn't intended for vacuum
this is what i replaced it with



but this also didn't work
heat and vacuum did this





so i replaced it wit EPDM rubber with steel coils inside this wont budge Grin







i also made the gaskets myself



compas with a sharp blade







more pics and details later

greetz Alan
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Alan
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 5:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi all

the exhaust Happy

i ordered a stainless muffler





and the rest of the materials i used



making te manifolds as u can see it dosn't fit so we make it fit



i'm not a great welder but it will suffice Grin









i coulden't go straight back because of waterpump inlet



i made the other one the same (mirror of course)







welded in the nut for the lambda probe





there is an equal length exhaust for ya Laugh Out Loud







then i used some heat wrap
1 most inportantly for heat reduction
2 for hiding my crappy welding Laugh Out Loud





then i used 4 stainless bends and made them into endpipes











fitting them with tape Happy



i didn't weld these myself i wanted these to look good so i asked a proffesional Grin





then i made a support for the exhaust

i used angle iron 50x30 mm and 30x30 mm











then i made 2 slits with an anglegrinder and welded the ends shut





i used a peace of rubber to keep the support and the muffler appart so they won't grind on each other and damage the muffler





then i took 2 hose clamps (i couldent find 1 that was long enough)









the support from down below



from above





and here is the finished exhaust








this is what the exhaust sounds likehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfesp-50E_8

my comments in the clip are that the sound is sporty but also civilized Grin
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Last edited by Alan on Sun Aug 03, 2014 10:39 am; edited 1 time in total
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Jedi Knight
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Location: Victoria,B.C. Canada

PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 6:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great looking muffler, where can you buy those ? Website ?
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Alan
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i bought the muffler and also the heatwrap @ http://www.quality-tuning.co.uk/
they were the cheapest i could find and they have a lot of choice,
the delivery is pretty fast the warehouse is based in greece
delivery takes about 2/3 days

this is the muffler i bought http://www.quality-tuning.co.uk/universal-stainless-steel-exhaust-muffler-rx8-style
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Alan
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi

time to show how i made my sump



i made this with the how to list posted by Toon on the dutch Subaru forum

i used tape to make a line around the sump as a guide to cut the sump
i cut the sump shorter than in the how to by Toon because i have airride and my van is realy low Grin



i measured 65 mm from the sump edge down most if your car/van is not as low as mine measure 75/80 mm





















clean the edge of the sump before welding



also on the inside



dont know if this is necessary but i dit it anyway
making sure that everything is level



the tag effect Happy





tagging allround



making sure its level because its easy to correct at this stage





then welded it al the way



i welded these strips inside so the oil won't slush around when i'm going around a corner



the drain plug



i made the whole as low as possible for easy draining





taggin on the sump





and welding it shut





and as you can see th whole is realy low for easy draining



so thats the sump all done Grin Grin

greetz Alan
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Wilfred
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alan wrote:






Hi alan (Area52?)

real nice work!

In the pic I quoted, i would use full metal band clip, one without the blue plastic. I used on of these om the exhaust of my motorcycle...it melts. Laugh Out Loud

Besides that, very nice job going on here! Shame you have to pay tax for your diesel, as a TDI conversion would have been a better option otherwise in my opinion....Cheaper on fuel at least...

Where do you have your battery? (batteries maybe? as you have a camper)
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Alan
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi Wilfred im not Alain (aerea52) but i'm also a member of the dutch subaru forum like Alain

i keep my batteries under my backseat (bench)



greetz Alan
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