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'66 Westy with 1.6d and T25 Bits
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Wilfred
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Joined: 13 Nov 2013
Posts: 344

PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, that is bad luck!
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1973 BayWindow running 1.9 110 bhp TDI with flipped gearbox.
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splitbusvanatic
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Joined: 08 Oct 2006
Posts: 325
Location: Co. Mayo, Ireland

PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah not good. I'm thinking they hit the inner part of the trailing arm housing.
Remember I have t25 rear suspension. It's pure pig iron.
I'll have to clearance the area that is encroaching on the shafts.


But. Its Better than a shredded CV joint.
Have welder. Will fix.
I'll sleeve them this time.
Plan is to get them re made properly once I finalise length.
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Kai
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Joined: 14 Nov 2008
Posts: 1213
Location: Village life.... Enter the Vale

PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your garage appears bigger and much tidier then mine. Was a big heart break going for a double to a single when we moved. Even worse I have the washing machine and tumble drier in their taking up valuable space.

Congratulations on marriage and the children too. I know how you feel about getting time to work on your project, I've got 3 kids, I s eak home in my lunch break when nobody is home or get up well esrly before anybody is awake.



Also, I had my driveshafts friction welded, needed them shortened. Can't remember the company off hand but it wasn't mega money I don't think. Like £100 or something. Had them rebuild the cvs at the same time so they just bolted up when they were returned.

Keep up the good work
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Don't sleep and drive!!!
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splitbusvanatic
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Location: Co. Mayo, Ireland

PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Kai.
The friction welding is cool.
But I Re welded and broke again.

One of the neighbours towed me home.
((New neighbours dont forget #))

Maybe my drive shafts are too short and reaching too steep.
I have pretty thick home made adapters.

Trev. Do you have a number for Podsy?
I might buzz him and get a pair off him and lengthen my drive shafts.



Lots of work done. Pics to follow.
However.
I can't get the idle speed below 1200rpm.
Also when I take it for a spin it goes into limp mode and I cannot use throttle at all unless I cycle key off and the on.

I've changed the vacuum lines and the turbo actuator arm is going up and down. So it seems like the turbo vanes are not stuck. Gave it the oven cleaner treatment etc just in case.
When I unplug the Air Flow Meter I can hear the engine change tune. I cleaned that as well with isopropyl. Also I changed the Coolant temp switch.

Anyone have any ideas.

Things to note:
•There is no exhaust currently connected.
•I extended the wiring for the throttle potentiometer.
•The fuel gauge is reading empty because there is no sender connected. I'm running off a Jerry can as a temporary measure.
•Brake pedal and Clutch pedal sensor/switches are taped in the closed position.

Please help guys.
I'm due to plug it into VagCom one of these days.
Thanks.
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Wilfred
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2016 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Basically it can only be the throttle potentiometer, or the bradepedal sensor.

First thing I would do is check and make sure the brake sensor is firmly pushed in.

I have read once, it can also be caused by a bad ground connection of the ECU, so check these!
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1973 BayWindow running 1.9 110 bhp TDI with flipped gearbox.
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splitbusvanatic
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Joined: 08 Oct 2006
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Location: Co. Mayo, Ireland

PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2016 4:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok. Cool.
I'll go over these again.
Thanks.
Hopefully get it plugged in to vagcom soon also.
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splitbusvanatic
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Joined: 08 Oct 2006
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Location: Co. Mayo, Ireland

PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok So the brake sensor switch was the culprit allalong.
thanks Wilfred for re directing me back to it.
So now it has reverted back to close to 900rpm on idle.
Is that normal for these engines? mines an afn 110bhp lump from '97.

Now a few pictures.



























Above is the pipe coming out of the turbo and going up through the hole and up to the intercooler.







Airbox back in.




another view from underneath.



space is tight,
but It's mine and 30 seconds from the dinner table and the bed.








ALFA 156 REAR Bench. just placed in, looks ok, quite comfy too..
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Wilfred
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yep, 900 rpm is where you should be. Interesting to see you have the throttle on the engine, and a cable to the pedal! I have the throttle under the cabin floor with wires extended.


It could be the pictures, but it doesn't seem like your intercooler is getting a lot of flow. On top of this, it is in the engine bay...

it's a pita to find the right spot, but I have it ful in fresh air, with a scoop outside the engine bay. Does seem like a better spot...

The height seems fine, doesn't it?

How did you overcome removing the steering pump? What kind of belt did you use?
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splitbusvanatic
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Location: Co. Mayo, Ireland

PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The throttle is at the engine bay because it's handy for me to rev the engine while I'm standing at the engine bay while working on the bus. I may revisit this later and mount it under accelerator pedal later. I find it useful when I need to look at the turbo acuator arm move while I 'hand Rev' the throttle.
Also I can Rev the engine and check for injector pump and or injector pipe leaks etc. under load. again.

The intercooler is over in that compartment to keep it away from the engine and away from the already crowded undercarriage and running gear.
The plan here is to sheet off that section of the bus and allow fresh air from the side vents to accumulate in that area and serve the intercooler And the air box. When it's sectioned off. Hopefully the cooler air will be enough for the intercooler. Maybe I will be proved wrong here. We'll see. A few screws and a bit of Perspex will soon tell me.
Maybe you're right and there's a full flow of fresh air needed.


I took off the pump and rerouted a shorter belt to run on the back of the water pump. I may have to put a proper toothed pulley on this smooth one later. Again. Time will tell.

At the moment my biggest problem is that my adapters at my inner cv's are way too thick. The angle is way too steep. The drive shafts are fouling the inside of the trailing arm housing. . They're homemade so it's 'wallet out' time or redo them.
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Wilfred
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually, that is a pretty good idea. I nevered revved up the engine while standing next to it, as the trottle was so far away :-)
I understand it works fine, at leas for the first period to test stuff!

Sectioning off the intercooler seems like a good idea. I think that will do fine, it's just that now there is not a real flow. That was what concerned me.

Regarding the water pump.... I promise you your engine will overheat or suffer from other heating issues. Your waterpump is running the wrong way around. It is not symmetrical, and doesn't do much in your situation! I would definetely look into this!

look at the waterpump, it is only functional in one direction. The other way around it just skims water, but will not move enough volume, I fear..



keep going though! you've done a lot already, the last bit will have to go as well!

EDIT: If your pockets are deep enough...this will overcome the axle issues... http://www.highangledriveline.com/sandrails.html
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splitbusvanatic
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Joined: 08 Oct 2006
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Location: Co. Mayo, Ireland

PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 10:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SH1T. I never thought about the water pump being only one directional.
Back to the drawing board. You've saved me, thanks buddy. I mean that.

Whoa. Those axles are the mutts nuts. A little booted damper built in too.
That's really clever. ?
I guess necessity is the mother of invention.
I wonder would they fit inside my trailing arm housing ? HeeHee.
1200 dollars for a pair. Lotto Time.
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Wilfred
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, those axles are mad! I kinda want them... but do I really NEED them... no.

Anyway, here is how I did the thing with the pulley (quote from my thread)

I also removed the steering pump. The tensionor for the timing belt is excellent for this. Fits right in the spot of the lower bolt for the steering pump. Using a couple of washers put it exactly in line with the other pulleys. Runs very smooth!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4S50DmIy0mI_JklpnQD6qQEbmR4P86xy8KgYcP4yNOY=w1632-h918-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yDHzRjXFf-LCW-ZbDGz14pF6AkomlsTLeU9afrixHCg=w517-h919-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SJ6cDG22H-sYS8E20tKj5f-F18Xkw-M41ZaQ2QT_Jhs=w517-h919-no
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