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Bay Window with 1.9 TDI engine -> READY
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Wilfred
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

okay, thanks!

What material is the gearbox? The next should be cut and shut in my opinion, but I don't know how to weld it yet. Could anybody tell me/
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1973 BayWindow running 1.9 110 bhp TDI with flipped gearbox.
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Wilfred
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2017 5:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

currently I am thinking of fitting a petrol gearbox. As far as I can see, these fit a diesel enginge, and the ratios suit me better. Anybody got any thoughts on that?

For your entertainment, I will ad a picture of the bus between the jag and the bikes in my workshop.


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Wilfred
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2018 5:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got myself another donor car with much better gear ratios last week. Why a complete car? Well, a secondhand gearbox goes for aroun 200 euro.

this car also went for 200, so why not collect some parts as well?

Going for the cut and shut method this time. looks soo much better.

Anybody got tips on how to do that?

also, I want to relocate the breather, but what would be a good spot for this? with the box out, I can make it anywhere but what would be the best choice?
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splitbusvanatic
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2018 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The cut and shut method I think is done by holding the gearbox square. And using a big bandsaw. The bell housing cut off.
Then it is rotated and ‘welded’ back on at the desired angle.
180 degrees for the ‘upright’ installation.
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Wilfred
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2018 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't have a big bandsaw, so I called some companies but none of them want to or can help me.

Looks like I will have to do it myself again... with the router.

Will let you know when time comes.
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splitbusvanatic
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have heard of some people using a large angle grinder held in a jig.
But never seen it done or seen results. Maybe you could hold the angle grinder on a set frame and the gearbox on a rotating base. And rotate the gearbox as you cut it.
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Wilfred
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 6:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can Always try! It is actually a pretty good idea...

if it does not work, I can Always still use the adapter ring. I already have that.

Thanks for the tip!!!
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Kai
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very interested to hear how you get on.

The gearing in my TDI sucks. I am more inclined to find more power though through the ECU, a bigger turbo and injectors. Then I could use the gearing Laugh Out Loud
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Wilfred
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I still need to look up the code of the new box. But a petrol box could be perfect for your Cheetah!
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Wilfred
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2018 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the gearbox, cut of 15 mm and its ready to go into the bus. Now think of a perfect spot for the breather!


IMG_20180514_200510088 by Wilfred Roo, on Flickr

IMG_20180514_200438869 by Wilfred Roo, on Flickr

IMG_20180514_200427982 by Wilfred Roo, on Flickr

IMG_20180514_200415401 by Wilfred Roo, on Flickr
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Kai
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Location: Village life.... Enter the Vale

PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2018 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’m watching!!!

My breather..... is connected (via a T) into the oil drain hole. Well it’s vice versus now it’s uoside down. Doesn’t breath any oil though. Not like my Subaru gets ones did.

Will get a picture of it for you shortly. I’m currently fitting a charge cooler.

I also have a new ECU.... from a ABL engine??? 80pin to 120 pin conversion is needed for this. No idea I was virtually given it by my friend. Now PD Inlet manifold also, guaranteed 3.7 extra HP Laugh Out Loud
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Wilfred
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2018 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have used this place for a breather. Copied from an guy from Austria, who ran 6000 km without losing any gearbox oil. First picture is outside view, second is inside gearbox to show where the breather goes.

bak breather by Wilfred Roo, on Flickr

bak breather 2 by Wilfred Roo, on Flickr


I also addresse another issue with the adapter plat. As Splitbusvanatic once pointe out, the gearbox connection to the adapter plate is not optimal. One half is fixed properly, but the other half of the circumference of the bellhousing does not have a bolt connected to the adapter or the engine.

He showed this in the picture below. The red arrows indicat where he thougt of putting extra bolts.

cutshut by Wilfred Roo, on Flickr

the adapter plate bolts nicely to the engine, all the way around. The gearbox not so much to the adapterplate, as said above. But at the point of the yellow circle, ther is room to weld a thick bolt to the adapter plate, which will allow you to use a hole on the bell housing. Just shove the box over the bolt and put a nut on it, and you can fix the box a lot better.

And what else...

I ran the engine without mufflers. It was not that loud, so I decided to get rid of the muffler and just fabricate an exhaust of about 1 meter long, and rout it directly to the back, just under the rear bumper. So that is a simple curved steel tube without anything else. the turbo reduces virtually all noise of the engine. This way, I could get rid of the large muffler I had, and was not happy with as there is hardly any room. And it is absolutely not any louder.

Almost finished, will try to take a pic tonight.
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