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'66 Westy with 1.6d and T25 Bits
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Wilfred
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

maybe you could use axles from a jaguar xj6, series 1/2/3... but you would have to integrate a splined part to allow it to stretch etc. But the seem like they can handle the angle, and are not expensive.



Combined with a driveshaft, which has a splined part and weld all that together...?
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1973 BayWindow running 1.9 110 bhp TDI with flipped gearbox.
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splitbusvanatic
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Joined: 08 Oct 2006
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Location: Co. Mayo, Ireland

PostPosted: Sat Apr 30, 2016 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the pulley pics.
I think your way is the best way. It's actually a no brainer.
As for half shafts. I have different adapters here.
Just need to 'tap' them.
Stay tuned.
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trev
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 30, 2016 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

that timing belt tensioner is a good idea alright! Might use that myself!
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Wilfred
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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2016 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey, I have been busy with the axles. Maybe some ideas for you:

http://vwkd.com/bb/viewtopic.php?p=32860#32860
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1973 BayWindow running 1.9 110 bhp TDI with flipped gearbox.
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splitbusvanatic
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 6:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



Did a mini refurb on my cv's.
Adapters revisited too.
Re-Made them to be 15mm.
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trev
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

those adapters look interesting. Are they cut-down CVs? Nice work!
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splitbusvanatic
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2016 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope.
They're a 10 mm piece that were made incorrectly initially on a water jet.
Off a CAD file.
Then there's a 5mm piece that was made perfectly and I clearanced out the outer holes on the 10mm pieces and welded them to the 5mm larger diameter pieces.

I've another set to make and I'll take proper photos of it.
If I can dig out the cad file I'll give it to you.
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trev
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2016 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheers Dan but I have my conversion done and I don't plan any more in the near future! Mind you, I am almost finished putting my old 1.9D and 4-speed box into another late bay. Should have it done by tomorrow Happy
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splitbusvanatic
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2016 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok. So refitted my new adapters and I'm back in business.
( Need an eight day in the week )
Van keeps going into limp mode now.
On Trev's experience I will swap out the n75 valve.
Where did you pick up the genuine one you bought Trev ?

Also every time I start her up she revs higher than normal but when I disconnect and reconnect the brake and clutch switches on loom it returns to normal idle.
What have people done here?
Cheers.
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trev
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2016 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

just delete the brake and clutch switches. Both of my TDI-converted looms run fine with the switches deleted. I think you need to put one of the two wires to earth and the other one to switched 12V. The ECU is happy with that. It does give an "implausible signal" error DTC for the brake switch but it doesn't put it in limp mode so you can just ignore it.

re the N75, I just put in a known good one I had from another donor car. Make sure you get an N75, not an N18 valve. the part numbers are the same but the N75 has the "A" suffix AFAIK.

have you any boost leaks? Vacuum leaks?

revving higher at idle until you unplug the switches sounds like you're actually causing it to go into limp mode. Is your throttle potentiometer "on" a little at idle? I.e. is it under a little pressure from the pedal? Is the temp sensor faulty and reading super cold? That could cause a high idle until it detects the engine heating up a bit.

any DTCs showing?
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splitbusvanatic
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2016 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No boost or vacuum leaks. Fairly certain of that.
Turbo is spooling up no bother.

Would no exhaust being fitted make a difference ?
Also the dash looks there's a handbrake 'on'
Would that do it ?

Haven't plugged her in.
Neighbor is an ex vag tech. Very handy man.
He's gonna take a look on Sat.

The throttle pot. I have moved to the engine bay and is under no pressure.

Don't know much bout the temp sensors.
But This engine fires up if you just 'feather' the key.
Great compression on it.

Thanks for tip on brake switch.
I'll do that.

Awful tempted to bung a Landy 300tdi pump on it.
Anyone have experience with this route. ?
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trev
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2016 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

some DTCs need to be cleared to eliminate limp-mode. Do you have any way of reading them/clearing them?

without a code-reader you're shooting in the dark on a TDI.

I bought one of these off adverts.ie for 20, barely used. They're kinda obsolete for newer stuff but perfect for the older TDI generation that we're using.



or get a cheap knock-off VAGCOM lead off ebay and plug in your laptop. Seriously, you're at nothing trouble shooting the TDI without some way of accessing the DTCs

when you say you see a light on the dash, do you mean the van's dash or do you still have the Passat dash fitted? I didn't bother with that, I have the ECU de-immobilised and the loom pared down to the BARE minimum.

don't throw in the towel on the TDI, get the code reader, see what's coming up and go from there. Once you have it sorted, you won't look back. I've done 2000 miles on my TDI conversion in the last 6 weeks and once I had the first couple of niggles sorted out, I literally haven't opened the engine lid other than to check the oil and water levels before setting out on the next adventure...

oh, if you dung out all the loom and go mTDI, you won't be able to use the android dashboard. I found it really useful for troubleshooting in the early days and still use it to keep tabs on RPM, coolant temp, MAF, MAP, throttle position. It's really useful.
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